The Greta Constantine ss2012 show last Tuesday was a two-way runway affair as design duo, Kirk Pickersgill and Stephen Wong kicked off Rogue Fashion Week in Toronto by presenting their latest collections for Greta Constantine and Ezra Constantine.

Design inspiration (updated October 18): Pickersgill describes the design inspiration for this season's collection as "It started with the idea of a girl dressing like a boy dressing like a girl... But it’s much more than simply gender. We’re fascinated by a collision of contrasts; structure and drapery; light and darkness; frivolity and function."

What I liked: the runway show opened with flowing jersey dresses that Greta Constantine is very well-known for. The colours chosen were vibrant and lively; red, orange, coral and aqua blue had many women in the audience transfixed and calculating on when they’d be able to get their hands on it – including me.

Ezra Constantine’s look for ss2012 held true to its urban roots. The clothes were mainly in black and white with lots of asymmetrical silhouettes.

What I disliked: with regards to the actual runway show, I found it a little confusing in its presentation and flow from collection to collection; clearer definition, some kind of signage or changes in music genre to show the separation of each line would have helped transition the audience to better understand the vision set out for the clothes this season.

Footwear: for the second season in a row, Greta Constantine partnered with ALDO to develop custom-made footwear. The shoes were minimalistic, absent of any embellishment but struck a bold chord with its all white composition, thick ankle straps, tan edging and stacked heels – I eyeballed the height at approximately 10 cm/4 inches.

Image gallery #1 from Peroni Moda Files

For the second season in a row, I’ll be working with the online team at Globalnews.ca to help cover the spring/summer 2012 runway shows at LG Fashion Week.

The first time I worked with Global News’ online team was back in March where they chose a select group of fashion insiders to bring audiences up-to-the minute tweets from the runway. This time around, I’ll be writing a few blog entries for them to cover some of the shows for the ss2012 season; click here to see my very own profile page on Globalnews.ca!

I always find it a great compliment when respected new outlets approach me to do a bit of writing for them and it’s great to partner backup with Globalnews.ca.

To read my blog entries and see some of the coverage of LG Fashion week visit Global Fashion.

The runway shows of Greta Constantine and Ezra Constantine have a rock star quality about them, partly because the design duo of Kirk Pickersgill and Stephen Wong create an aura of modernism surrounding their clothes, as well as secure strong corporate backing from companies such as ALDO, Audi Downtown and Schwarzkopf Professional.

The show was held in the Audi dealership downtown. The music blared, Audi cars sparkled as you walked throughout the dealership and the vitaminwater flowed freely at the bar to wet everyone’s whistle for the main attraction.

Design inspiration: as per the show notes

• Greta Constantine – the “fall/winter 2011 Greta Constantine collection shapes the uniform for the modern tribe... (for a woman) her wardrobe is a global dialogue, not a battleground between old world and new or east and west. In that way, she is the bridge between past and future.” I’m slightly confused by this description but okay.
• Ezra Constantine – the men’s collection “is designed for today’s urban nomad; a man whose wardrobe fuses elements of both day and night, casual and formal. The collection juxtaposes the duo’s identifiable drapery with the masculinity of structured jackets...”

Greta Constantine fall/winter 2011 collection

What I liked: the outerwear and layered separates really shone for Greta Constantine this season. When comparing their spring/summer and fall/winter lines, hands down fall/winter receives a resounding seal of approval. The duo dug deeper this season showing a larger range in their design abilities by churning out multiple wool capes, kimono style jackets, velvet pants in jewel tones and a four-tiered voluminous beige skirt.

For Ezra, deconstructed minimalism is how I describe the collection. The draping in the men’s collection shows maturity, used sparingly and strategically in the outwear.

Ezra Constantine fall/winter 2011 collection

What I disliked: again, nothing bad to say about both collections; however, I am still stumped on the excerpt used to describe the design inspiration behind the Greta collection.

Footwear: by far the shoes at the Greta show were thee most interesting, unique and eye-catching throughout the entire fashion weeks. ALDO partnered with the label to create a collection of footwear exclusively for the fall/winter 2011 runway show. “The collection of four styles boasts rich, Orient-inspired fabrics and completes the designers’ vision of the modern tribe from head to toe.” In other words, I give this collaboration a resounding two stiletto shoes up.

Image galleries #1 and #2 courtesy of Greta Constantine and Erza Constantine.

Of all the designers showing independent of LG Fashion Week and its organizing body, the Fashion Design Council of Canada, Kirk Pickersgill and Stephen Wong of Greta Constantine know how to draw the hype and a large crowd to their shows season after season. In addition, they do know how to keep people waiting impatiently in a crowded and cramped show space.

However, they are the very few designers who can be quickly forgiven with a runway show that opened with supermodel, Coco Rocha and a collection of Grecian inspired garments highlighting their signature use of jersey and draping technique.

The colour palette for spring/summer 2011 is largely in earth tones, but is punctuated with several fiery red dresses which caught the attention of the crowd and are my favourite pieces.

Also inserted into the runway show were a few garments from their menswear label, Ezra Constantine which gave off an edgy and deconstructed feel – half naked and good looking men are always a plus for me.

Photo credit: Peter Balinski

Africa is one of the many countries which are on my list of places to see and visit. Though I haven’t reached there yet I was, however, momentarily transported across the Atlantic Ocean to the continent while attending JUMA’s spring 2011 presentation.

For their latest collection the creators of JUMA, Jamil and Alia Juma, are inspired by the countries of Kenya and Zaire. They incorporate the untamed landscape and wildlife of these places into their collection through a multitude of prints designed on clothing such as dresses, jumpers and shirts.

As you take a closer look, each piece is its own pictorial collage telling a story about these countries. A flock of flamingos standing in a watering hole, tree branches extending its arms into the hot sun and zebra stripes acting as protective camouflage from predators – all are subtly woven into each piece retaining the label’s signature look of androgyny, progressive and understated designs.

For me, it is JUMA’s silk scarves which are the highlight pieces. During the debut of the collection, they were hung from the ceiling swaying effortlessly above everyone’s heads. The colours are vibrant and patterns complex, I was sorely tempted to reach up and take one home.

When a fashion designer makes a new venture into clothing it’s often met with a mixture of emotions; anticipation, hesitation and a high level of interest. What will it look like? How much will it cost? And most importantly, will it look good?

This season menswear designer, Philip Sparks premiered his long awaited womenswear line turning his eyes to the female form.

Now branding his clothing creations under the name Philip Sparks Tailored Goods Inc., Sparks presented his latest designs to a packed crowd in the Burroughs Building and showed not one but two collections – menswear and womenswear.

On the runway

I wasn’t expecting to see any menswear at Spark’s spring 2011 presentation, but it was a welcomed treat and makes complete sense; there’s no reason why he shouldn’t show his tailoring talents for both sexes simultaneously. In total there were 21 looks “inspired by early spring rain” which comes through in a “watery colour palette” of earth tones and layered pieces.

The womenswear line evokes a feeling of quiet spring time in the woods, early in the morning away from the craziness of city life. Cherry blossom photo prints imprinted on a blouse and jumper, and a turquoise plaid shirtdress are visual stand out pieces. While Sparks’s cigarette pants, high waisted jeans and turquoise cotton blazer are wardrobe staples.

The menswear collection is classic Sparks – strong and outdoorsy with a vintage feel as seen in a plaid trench coat and oxford shirt, and pin cord blazer.

The clothing up close and personal

Information provided by Philip Sparks Tailored Goods Inc.

Toronto Fashion Week(s) kicked off “unofficially” last Tuesday with Canadian designer, Even Biddell showing his spring/summer 2011 collection in collaboration with SEVEN CONTINENTS, one of North America’s leading manufacturing companies specializing in mannequins, forms, furniture, fixtures and accessorizers for retail stores.

One thing I’ve always found with Biddell’s designs – season after season – is that it’s like a box of chocolates, you never know what you’re going to get.

For spring/summer 2010 his collection was titled, Unnatural Disaster which took a futuristic approach to sportswear. For fall/winter 2010, Biddell brought us Prehistory, an abstract approach to the human form. Visually, these collections are very different but demonstrate the creative bubble brewing inside his mind.

After seeing Biddell’s latest collection, Kingdom, it’s motivating to say there’s a noted change in his vision and approach to fashion design. Using armour as inspiration, a dressed composed of multiple disks, swimwear outfitted in spikes and jackets with fringe detailing came down the runway. Floral printed dresses brought a softer side to Kingdom but retain its armour-like feel with rounded disks detailing the waist of the garments.

This collection is the most wearable, saleable and retail friendly line Biddell has churned out to date. Secondly, it shows signs of growing maturity and the ability to better focus his vision for the wider retail market.

Photo credit Peter Balinski

Andrew Sardone, fashion/design writer for NOW Magazine, contacted me along with two other Toronto fashion bloggers to be included in the publication’s fall fashion feature just in time for LG Fashion Week. The moment I heard this I was overjoyed to be selected.

Approximately four years ago Sardone picked out a handful of local bloggers, such as Tommy Ton (Jak & Jil), Anita Clarke (I Want – I Got) and Danielle Meder (Final Fashion) for a similar feature; all are now well established and respected in the scene. Sardone has the knack for being forward thinking and has his finger on the blogging pulse, and I was honoured to be chosen – thanks Andrew!

I’m in very good company for this feature with fellow fashion bloggers Kevin Naulls of Dressed for Dinner and Stefania Yarhi of Textstyles.

For your reading pleasure here is the article online, Toronto fashion bloggers: the new class.

What I wore:

• Navy blue sequin jacket by Drykron for Beautiful People
• Black leggings by Designer Remix
• Black buckle booties from Winners (mine)
• Ring by Solange Azagury-Partridge (mine)

Special thanks to Juan Carlos of Magnolia for supplying me with the clothes and to Tricia Campbell-Hall for her expert styling tips – it’s nice to have talented friends.

If the Barbie by David Dixon collection was sweet and youthful then the David Dixon Signature collection was anything but. For his namesake line, the designer began the second half of his runway show introducing clothing that is powerful, strong and sure-footed in its aesthetic.

Dixon describes the inspiration for his signature line as tribal based this season. In the line sheet for the show, he attributes this to the multiculturalism of Toronto and global events, such as natural disasters (earthquakes in Haiti and Chile) and a rebirth of Canadian pride from the Vancouver 2010 Olympic Games therefore envisioning a “Global Tribe.”

Clothing on the runway is reminiscent of the movie Avatar with cultural references and mostly dark colour palette. Fabrics such as hand woven Raffia from Spain, leather strips symbolic of African basket weaving, Asian cloth, Canadian fur and Indian mirror beading add to this notion of blending tribes. Tiny braids woven throughout the models’ hair and tribal jewellery like collar necklaces and thick cuffs serve as additional armour to this race of warrior women.

My favourite pieces from this line is knee-length, woven leather and fan print organza dress. The second is a mirror and wool silk shift dress made of organza; the mirror pieces on the dress remind me of ancient Byzantine mosaic tile art from the 15^th century.

Seeing the Barbie by David Dixon and the David Dixon Signature collections back-to-back is always something to look forward. Despite prominent corporate backing Dixon receives from Mattel and Town Shoes (his footwear provider and one of the main sponsors for LG Fashion Week) he still maintains his signature look of functional elegance.

Photo credit: Kimberly

It’s been just over a week since LG Fashion Week ended and I’m closing my reviews of its fall/winter 2010 runways shows (on day five) with two collections designed by veteran Canadian designer, David Dixon who always turns out a well focused, tailored and sophisticated clothing.

For several seasons, Dixon has been collaborating with Mattel commemorating Barbie’s 50^th anniversary by developing a collection that is a youthful and flirty, using the iconic doll as his muse. This season, for fall/winter 2010 Dixon was inspired by his visits to London, England, particularly the period of the 1960s when it was “a place of great social and cultural change” and where Carnaby Street was and still is the place to go.

Appropriately titled Carnaby Street Barbie, Dixon presents 35 looks that take you back in time with shift dresses, vibrant colours and floral prints. The models were styled to appear cute and fresh with sweetly curled side ponytails and jewellery that makes a statement, such as the heavy industrial shaped necklaces, or delicate earrings catering to the popular minimalistic style during this era.

A sleeveless double knit shift dress in pink and black, a mini floral silk charmeuse dress and a red tweed shift dress were clean cut, but also provides a groovy twist evoking visions of young women breaking out of their demur selves and dancing to music by the Beetles.

The two finale looks, both black bubble jacquard dresses were edgier than the rest of the collection and are militaristic in appearance.

Photo credit: Kimberly