Shoe of the moment: printed pumps by Nicholas Kirkwood

Definitely one of my favourite footwear designers is Nicholas Kirkwood. I’ve always admired his ability to create shoes with interesting shapes and silhouettes that speak to the imagination and architectural side of design – it also helps that his stuff is stunning too!

His spring/summer 2012 collection is a visual delight with all sorts of styles that incorporate pearl detailing, lace, bows and rosettes. However, out of all of them, my absolute favourites are these printed stain pumps – please and thank you to the return of prints to fashion!

Shoe specifications:

  • Outer, satin
  • Colour, multi
  • Heel height, 10 cm

Why I chose this shoe: I was struggling for a few days to express, in words, how much I L-O-V-E these printed pumps and still I find it a little difficult to rely my feelings; it’s very rare that a particular shoe style renders me speechless, this is probably the first time I’ve experienced this.

The collage of multi-coloured patterns placed onto these heels is unforgettable with its vibrant shades and use of images such as birds and flowers, utterly symbolic of spring and summer.

So far Bergdorf Goodman is the only retailer selling these heels online, but I’m sure other stores will have them in stock soon. The white and turquoise pumps are on my list of shoes to acquire for spring.

How would you describe these shoes? What about them do you like/love?

Images from Nicholas Kirkwood

Shoe of the moment: laser cut booties by Nicholas Kirkwood

Looking back on the shoes I’ve chosen for this weekly blog post, I’ve been unconsciously drawn to texture used to enhance and compliment footwear designs. From brushed suede to metal chains, to pony hair and embossed leather, all showcase the various materials used by designers to captivate shoeaholics around the world.

Therefore, my shoe choice for today is from Nicholas Kirkwood’s fall/winter 2011 collection which showcases the ingenuity of laser cut leather.

Shoe specifications:

  • Outer, leather
  • Colour, navy
  • Heel height, 13 cm

Why I chose this shoe: found on Barneys, the laser cut bootie from Kirkwood’s collection highlights the benefits of using technology to craft intricate designs out of leather. The floral and leaf cut-outs cover the entire shoe and the black leather trimming along the ankle and foot creates depth and provides an edgy feel.

Images from Barneys

Nicholas Kirkwood launches his new boutique with a collection inspired by Keith Haring

In March, I published an interview I did with UK footwear designer, Nicholas Kirkwood which mentioned his collaboration with the Keith Haring foundation. Back then, there were only a few illustrations available to show Kirkwood’s creativity in action, incorporating Haring’s art into footwear. Now, there’s a video which clearly shows how Haring’s 1980s pop art is transformed into life and onto shoes using Swarovski crystals, particularly on a thigh-high leopard print boot with roller skates – it’s pretty darn cool.

The entire Haring-inspired collection will be shown at Kirkwood’s new London boutique until July 1.

Nicholas Kirkwood x Keith Haring on Nowness.com

Video courtesy of NOWNESS

Designer interview: Nicholas Kirkwood, the architect and new innovator of footwear

Last month I published my interview with UK footwear designer, Charlotte Olympia Dellal and I’m following up with my conversation with Nicholas Kirkwood, the architect and new innovator of footwear.

If you were walking down the street and passed by Kirkwood you would never guess in 2008 he was awarded the Footwear Designer of the Year award by Condé Nast's Footwear News publication, or that his work has given new life and focused attention to footwear in fashion.

Sitting with Kirkwood one-on-one revealed his quiet and subtle demeanour, a contrast to his bold statement shoes famously known for its architectural quality and use of innovative materials such as python, shaved stingray or laser-cut mirror leather. I came out of this interview appreciating Kirkwood’s deep reflective nature and felt that I only scratched the surface with him.

What inspires you as a footwear designer?

Everything, from architecture to film and music, really also being in London and the work of other people like the ready-to-wear designers; there are many things in London to be inspired by.

What are your criteria for a well constructed and well designed shoe?

First, it’s to find the right factory in Italy who uses quality materials, small stitching – it’s attention to detail. A lot of times it’s in the finishing part, which is something that sometimes gets rushed through in many factories; they clean up, make sure there’s glue on the soles, all these types of things and putting a bit of love in the manufacturing.

Do you have a shoe motto?

I’m going to try and come up with one right now... I’ll think of one by the end.

Can you tell me about a shoe you will never forget?

There is no specific shoe but it’s the work of Roger Vivier and how he used to go to NASA to get a heel developed. The whole idea of the real exploratory and trying to change the boundaries of footwear at the time; it’s him, André Perugia and Ferragamo.

Nicholas Kirkwood spring/summer 2011 collection

What styles of shoes do you like?

I like high heels – you might guess that one (laughs). Things that are interesting as a silhouette, even if you turn off the light and shine a light from behind, it’s the shape a shoe creates that for me makes it interesting.

What styles of shoes do you dislike?

Sneakers on high heels.

What footwear projects do you have planned for the future?

I’m currently working on collaborating with the Keith Haring Foundation to make a mini collection of 10-12 pieces based on of his art work and using it to create pattern pieces. It’s a fun project, as soon as I get back from here I’m going to start working on it. 

What is your present state of mind?

I think it would be really funny to say hung over but I’m not (laughs).

Nicholas Kirkwood's design collaboration with the Keith Haring Foundation

Images from Nicholas Kirkwood

Shoe of the moment: suede platforms with lattice detail by Nicholas Kirkwood

I’ve been meaning to feature footwear designer, Nicholas Kirkwood in my weekly Shoe of the Moment entries but it kept slipping my mind. However, with his presence at the Bay’s “God Save the Queen” event last night, celebrating the one year anniversary of the Room, I couldn’t keep my admiration of Kirkwood’s shoes on the back burner any longer.

Shoe specifications:

  • Outer, leather and suede
  • Heel height, 14 cm
  • Black suede laces with metal end caps

Why I chose this shoe: the vibrancy and colour combination of these platform shoes caught my immediate attention. The spray paint effect, blending two shades of blue, is something I haven’t seen before and is a great technique when combining colours. Secondly, the pink detailing around the perimeter of the shoe provides an added pop of colour to the overall design, as well as highlights its contours. The black leather trim and suede lattice detailing at the front finishes off the entire look.