Designer interview: Dianna DiNoble of Starkers Corsetry on the how and why of the corsets
I am absolutely fascinated with corsets and during |FAT| Toronto Alternative Fashion Week Dianna DiNoble of Starkers Corsetry presented her latest creations. Unfortunately, I missed the show but as luck would have it I had the recent opportunity to visit Dianna in her home where she showed me her works, shared her knowledge about corset making and allowed me to try on a few pieces.
Trying on corsets was a completely new experience for me; being laced and buttoned into one was eye opening and really cool. I didn’t take the best pictures of me in the corset but you get the general idea.
What is it about corsets and corset making that appeal to you?
I love the detail that goes into each piece and the sculpting involved in the process. Seeing a flat, thin piece fabric be transformed into a three dimensional structure that is strong enough to hold a person upright and reshape their figure is quite amazing. Also, the reaction of a client who has just put on their corset marvelling at how tiny their waist looks is quite fun too.
How can someone tell the difference between corsets that are well made versus ones that are poorly made?
Corsets that are well made typically have a traditional busk (fixed hook & eye) closure, steel bones and three to four layers of fabric. A well made corset is carefully cut on the fabric grain, which will minimize wrinkles, and is fit to the customer. A poorly made corset often has a single layer of fabric; it may have plastic bones or elastics and is quite wrinkly and possibly uncomfortable to wear.
Bridal corset in development made out of gold sari fabric
What are some of the reasons people continue to wear corsets or have them custom made to this day?
This season is all about brides! Brides love having something that is comfortable to wear, elegant with a hint of edge with and a hint of their own unique style. It's also a big bang for your buck as a bride to have a completely custom made to measure gown that is often under $1200, even for silk! The best part is that it is adjustable with the back lacing.
Every bride will gain or lose a little weight within the days leading up to their wedding and a corset is still a perfect fit without any alteration. Brides also like chese corsets as foundation garments to their gowns if they are going with a zip-up gown.
I also have some clients who tightlace, that is, they wear their corsets from 10 to 23 hours every day to achieve a very small waist. There are some drag queens, dominatrixes, celebrities wanting them for red carpet events and even some with scoliosis or MS who are looking for supportive undergarments which prettier than the standard issue brace.
If someone is interested in buying a corset or having one custom made (by you) what should they consider?
They should consider primarily where they will be wearing it, i.e.: specific event, casual wear, long term wear,and if it can be used for different occasions. They should consider whether they would benefit from an under the bust style – which can be more casual or undergarment use, or an over the bust style which looks better as an outer garment. They could have in mind the colour or fabrics they would like. Although I do provide fabric swatches and design services if they don't know where to start.
Clients sometimes run under the assumption a corset will make them appear skinnier which is not true. A corset will draw in the waist, but as a result the hips will often appear larger (even though they are not) and they will have an appearance of being overall curvier not generally leaner, or skinnier as they were hoping for. It does keep the odd bump under control but will give them a figure more like Kate Winslet than Angelina Jolie.
How long does it usually take for you to construct a corset?
Once I take measurements, clients typically wait six to eight weeks for their garment to be completed. Each corset varies from start to finish.
What is the typical price range for a corset?
The price range for my custom corsets is $430 and up.
