Dixon describes the inspiration for his signature line as tribal based this season. In the line sheet for the show, he attributes this to the multiculturalism of Toronto and global events, such as natural disasters (earthquakes in Haiti and Chile) and a rebirth of Canadian pride from the Vancouver 2010 Olympic Games therefore envisioning a “Global Tribe.”

Clothing on the runway is reminiscent of the movie Avatar with cultural references and mostly dark colour palette. Fabrics such as hand woven Raffia from Spain, leather strips symbolic of African basket weaving, Asian cloth, Canadian fur and Indian mirror beading add to this notion of blending tribes. Tiny braids woven throughout the models’ hair and tribal jewellery like collar necklaces and thick cuffs serve as additional armour to this race of warrior women.

My favourite pieces from this line is knee-length, woven leather and fan print organza dress. The second is a mirror and wool silk shift dress made of organza; the mirror pieces on the dress remind me of ancient Byzantine mosaic tile art from the 15^th century.

Seeing the Barbie by David Dixon and the David Dixon Signature collections back-to-back is always something to look forward. Despite prominent corporate backing Dixon receives from Mattel and Town Shoes (his footwear provider and one of the main sponsors for LG Fashion Week) he still maintains his signature look of functional elegance.

Photo credit: Kimberly

                             

It’s been just over a week since LG Fashion Week ended and I’m closing my reviews of its fall/winter 2010 runways shows (on day five) with two collections designed by veteran Canadian designer, David Dixon who always turns out a well focused, tailored and sophisticated clothing.

For several seasons, Dixon has been collaborating with Mattel commemorating Barbie’s 50^th anniversary by developing a collection that is a youthful and flirty, using the iconic doll as his muse. This season, for fall/winter 2010 Dixon was inspired by his visits to London, England, particularly the period of the 1960s when it was “a place of great social and cultural change” and where Carnaby Street was and still is the place to go.

Appropriately titled Carnaby Street Barbie, Dixon presents 35 looks that take you back in time with shift dresses, vibrant colours and floral prints. The models were styled to appear cute and fresh with sweetly curled side ponytails and jewellery that makes a statement, such as the heavy industrial shaped necklaces, or delicate earrings catering to the popular minimalistic style during this era.

A sleeveless double knit shift dress in pink and black, a mini floral silk charmeuse dress and a red tweed shift dress were clean cut, but also provides a groovy twist evoking visions of young women breaking out of their demur selves and dancing to music by the Beetles.

The two finale looks, both black bubble jacquard dresses were edgier than the rest of the collection and are militaristic in appearance.

Photo credit: Kimberly

               

One of the runway shows I was eager to catch this season was by RUDSAK. As fate would have it, I got stuck in traffic for over two hours on day five of LG Fashion Week and arrived just in time to see the finale of RUDSAK’s fall/winter 2010 show. It’s true when they say, “Fashion waits for no one.”

Designer, Evik Asatoorian titled RUDSAK’s latest collection, Fly High which is one of the two aviation inspired lines seen on the runway this season, the other by Pink Tartan. There’s a great selection of accessories and outerwear to pick from Asatoorian’s designs this season; leather combined with knits, fur and wool.

The collection was predominantly in black but the sleekness of the designs, tailoring and styling made all the garments look incredibly smart and cool, and the male models looked better than the actors in the movie Top Gun.

My favourite piece from the collection was a belted, black coat with an off-centre button closure, with leather cuffs and stock collar.

Photos by: Silvia Drugea /Courtesy of www.fashionist.ca

The line sheet provided for the runway show on day four of LG Fashion Week was gold, clearly listing the clothing on each model along with price points for all the items – I wish all designers gave out this information. Creative Director of Joe Fresh Style^TM and Canadian fashion entrepreneur, Joseph Mimran presents 52 looks for fall/winter 2010 in a dizzying show which will make you do a double take.

Could leather stud boots look that good and cost $159? Is that faux fur scarf $29 and sequin sweater $39? My goodness! This is a different and elevated Joe Fresh Style^TM which has my fashion senses tingling, in a good way.

There was no particular theme inspiring this collection, but there’s no need for we know the brand is dedicated to designing clothing which is practical and versatile. Yet, if you’re looking for a description I would call it military enthused with a dose of preppiness with items such as military parkas, wool peacoats, pleated trousers and tweed skirts included in the line-up.

I’m happy footwear for this collection (oxford, brogues and boots) is made of leather and is being offered at an affordable price. Other highlights of collection is a white studded sweater ($49) and fur accessories (collars and scarves) ranging from $19 to $29.

My only constructive criticism for this collection was the faux fur coats, one in leopard print ($84) and several in mohair. Personally, it was a little too much of a similar texture to digest all in one sitting and in multiple forms; if done in leather or even pleather then the collection wouldn’t have been over saturated in this textile. However, I am looking forward to getting my hands on several pieces of Joe Fresh Style’s^TM fall/winter 2010 collection when it hits the shelves later this year.

               

                   

On day four of LG Fashion Week I attended two of the big ticket runway shows of the evening, Pink Tartan and Joe Fresh Style^TM. I was interested in seeing what Canadian power couple, Kimberley Newport-Mimran and her husband, Joseph Mimran would show in their individual collections, yet at the same time fearful of the crowds I’d have to navigate through to get to my seat.

To no surprise, it was a mad house with people piling up on the catwalk, jockeying for seats and those left standing ended up sitting in the aisles or pushed unceremoniously to the back of the room without a view.

For fall/winter 2010, Kimberley Newport-Mimran rolls out an aviation inspired collection for Pink Tartan taking a few cues from the 2009 movie based on Amelia Earhart’s life. I’ve read some mixed reviews about this collection, but I appreciate Newport-Mimran’s tendency to stick with designing wardrobe staples and then bringing them up-to-date with popular trends; highlighting the shoulders, as well as sticking to a mostly monochromatic colour palette which speaks to the masses looking for clothing that is simplistic and not alienating season to season.

Newport-Mimran employs fabrics such as wool, leather and of course this season’s most used textile, fur in the form of skirts, jacket collars and accessories in her latest collection. The tendency for majority of the shapes in Pink Tartan’s line-up this season was a balance of proportions; bell skirts were paired with slimming tops and puffy bomber jackets matched with slender pants.

There are several pieces in Pink Tartan’s fall/winter 2010 collection that I really like: the first is the aviator caps, especially those decorated in sequins. Secondly, skirts in silver sequins and fur give off a fun and playful look. Lastly, the emphasis on the shoulders was another favourite, particularly pearl beading sewn onto a grey wool top and on a 1960s inspired knee-length, cream dress which serves as a refreshing detail.

Newport-Mimran presents a collection that is romantic, glamorous and as always polished.

Photos by: Silvia Drugea /Courtesy of www.fashionist.ca

                                     

One of the runway shows which continually peak the curiosity of the fashion throng season after season is by Even Biddell. Since winning Project Runway Canada in 2007 Biddell rebelliously pushes the notions of shape, incorporates an artistic vision that is intellectual and abstract, and experiments with non-traditional textiles.

For his runway show this season some members of the media sat in their seats looking perplexed without a little pre-explanation of the theme of the collection. Andrew Sardone of NOW magazine said it best in his online review, “I was desperate for a line sheet at Evan Biddell's fashion week show... a catwalk cheat sheet could have helped.” Sardone was not alone, but thank goodness for invitations sent out previously that mentioned the theme of Biddell’s fall/winter 2010 collection.

This season his collection titled, Prehistory starts in the future and reverts back in time with modifications to the human form. The runway show was divided into two halves; for the first part, clothing is futuristic with a retro 1980s twist. Models wore garments in bright techicolour prints designed in the form of bodysuits, hooded dresses and wore hairband sunglasses.

As the collection moves into the pre-historic past it transforms becoming darker, more voluminous, texture and movement focused. The shape of the garments melds the human form with that of the dinosaurs with armour-like shoulder plates, sleek metallic pleather and printed fabrics with a reptilian feel. Fringe detailing was used on jackets, sleeves and neck pieces moving freely like feathered dinosaurs.

Biddell’s collections aren’t always clear-cut and transparent in comprehension, but the designer definitely makes you think outside the box.

Images taken by Kimberly

                                                 

Pat McDonagh is a veteran of the Canadian fashion scene. Last season, she was sponsored by Baskin Robbins Canada to develop a collection based on its Bright Choices ice cream garnering mixed reviews. I was interested to see what McDonagh would churn out for her latest collection sans the sweets – pardon the pun.

War and peace is how I describe McDonagh’s line for fall/winter 2010. Invitations sent to guests earlier in the week subtly set the tone with an image of a white peace dove carrying what could be an olive branch in its mouth.

The opening of McDonagh’s runway show began with a melodic religious hymn, the Prayer of Saint Francis but that was soon replaced with the heavy drum beats of Sade’s Solider of Love, hence begins war. The first half of the collection is Russian inspired; militaristic jackets in wool and a long sleeve double breasted dress, both in blood red, creates a strong statement making you want to shout “The Russians are coming! The Russians are coming!”

Midway war turns into peace with the colour palette changing to greys and whites introducing the turning point of this battle; a knit cream sweater jacket with fur ushanka hat and collar, a sheath dress and a Chanel-like suit and skirt followed. However, the peaceful stalemate turns shaky with a return of more red cocktail dresses and a latex-type bodice with black feather skirt.

McDonagh’s runway show ends with several white wedding dresses; one in particular has feathers angelically sticking out from the shoulders signalling the end of this battle, peace has prevailed.

Images taken by Kimberly

                             

During Fashion Week, I’m usually able to snap good pictures from my seat giving you an of-the-moment view of designers’ latest collections and their runway shows. However, pictures I took on day three of LG Fashion Week didn’t turn out very well; poor lighting and a point-and-shoot camera didn’t help my case much. However, my shots of the show finales provides a holistic look at the fall/winter 2010 collections of LOVAS by Wesley Badanjak, Pat McDonagh and Evan Biddell.

My first show of the evening, on Tuesday, was LOVAS by Wesley Badanjak. Badanjak’s fall/winter 2010 collection is named, Behind the Gates which is inspired by memories and photographs of his paternal grandmother, Cecilija Badanjak. Hearing this, I was touched at the emotional and familial inspiration Badanjak sourced and was interested in his reinterpretation of European (more particularly Croatian) fashion from the past.

Badanjak presents a modern approach to his chosen theme with clean cut silhouettes and an array of clothing separates highlighting the practicality and versatility required of women’s wardrobes nowadays. Vibrant print dresses, skirts, sequin leggings and staple items, such as a double-breasted white wool jacket and a black sheath dress with gold embroidery offer the ability to mix-and-match within this collection.

Fur is strategically used throughout LOVAS as to not saturate the use of this textile for the collection this season; bleached coyote and lambskin jacket, red fox bolero and black raccoon fingerless gloves were part of the temperate use of this material.

The second most touching element of this collection was Badanjak affectionately kissing and hugging his parents during the finale.

Images taken by Kimberly

                               

On Sunday night, LG Fashion Week officially began with the debut of IZMA; a collaboration between Canadian designer, Izzy Camilleri and television personality and fashion journalist, Adrian Mainella.

The IZMA show was highly anticipated for several reasons: 1) it was the first time Izzy Camilleri was presenting a collection in public, 2) people were interested to see how Camilleri and Mainella’s collaboration would play out and how the duo’s interpretation of fur would materialize - a textile which has experienced an enormous resurgence in the past year and 3) how the Fashion Design Council of Canada’s (FDCC) last minute change of venue from 30 Ordnance Ave to the Allstream Centre would fare. After Sunday night, both IZMA’s show and LG Fashion Week’s new venue did not disappoint.

For fall/winter 2010, IZMA calls its collection Fur Innovation which is a tribute to the Canadian wilderness with four key concepts in mind: wearability, versatility, attainability and longevity. All of its products are handmade in Canada and uses only North American Fur Association Origin Assured sustainable wild Canadian furs. The collection retails from $395 to $7,995.

IZMA’s collection held my complete attention from start to finish with a well balanced palette of light and dark colours, textures and pieces. As a result, bleached coyote and raccoon fur, beaver, fox and muskrat provide a range of fur for all tastes; those looking for an earthy style or those who prefer a sleek and sexy appearance. IZMA remains 100 per cent faithful to its core concepts creating pieces which are versatile, stylish and timeless from tunics, skirts, capes and accessories. Camilleri and Mainella thought of everything Canadians  need or require made of fur to keep themselves warm during the cold winter months.

I have three favourite pieces from IZMA’s collection and they are a hooded bomber with three quarter length sleeves shown in natural silver fox, an oversized tunic in bleach coyote with a muff front and a fitted, all black leather pant suit.

IZMA’s fall/winter 2010 collection really captures the vastness of Canada’s landscape and its wilderness. It’s very evident Camilleri and Mainella put a great deal of thought and execution when developing this line, making fur a functional and more attainable material for women to wear.

Images taken by Kimberly

On a quiet street in the west end of Toronto, Canadian designer Evan Biddell and photographer, Joseph Fuda partnered up to open a space named OZ Studio Boutique.

OZ Studio Boutique is situated in a 100 year old building which was remodelled to mix its existing historical structure with modern elements – combining the concept of a fashion gallery and photo studio into one. The space has a rugged and refined look with 17ft ceilings, original hardwood floors and exposed brick. The modern features of OZ is its stainless steel wall which is magnetized and serves as a revolving feature to display and sell Biddell’s clothing, as well as show off works of art.  

For OZ’s Tuesday night opening, pieces from Biddell’s fall/winter 2009 and spring/summer 2010 collections were on display and available for purchase.

I had a chance to speak with Biddell and ask him a few questions:

• Evan Biddell fall/winter 2010 collection – this season he is focusing more on the clothes and less about creating a catwalk spectacle for his show at LG Fashion Week.
• Future projects – Biddell will be making the jump into the artistic world and plans on creating works of art; a movement many fashion designers have been taking recently and one that suits Biddell’s tendency to push the envelope, incorporating his perspective on art, beauty and design. The only clue I was given by Biddell as to what to expect was to look towards |FAT| 2010 – my calendar has already been marked.

                   

Images taken by Kimberly